How to Raise Kitchen Ceilings, Install Drywall Ceiling, LED Wafer Lights

– Okay, so we just peel these off Some of these are kind of yucky

I can tell some of these are newer, too These have been replaced in the last few years Because normally, in condos like this, you walk into a kitchen like this, these will be all yellow, like dark yellow and nasty Sometimes to the point that the light has no effect So, we just peel all these off like this, and this is a standard suspended ceiling, and, luckily, if you look over here in the edge here, along the wall, we come around here and take a look

You can see they never riveted these cross Ts, to the wall bracket, there So, that's obviously going to make our job a lot easier, 'cause these all just kind of interlocked They'll come right out, and these'll pop right off We'll have this ceiling down in five, 10 minutes ("Mr

Right" by TeeVex) Hey, everybody, Jeff here, and welcome back to our channel If this is your first time visiting us, this is a great time for you to take a look at the subscription button down below, and you might wanna click on that, so you can be aware of all of the other videos that we put out to help you So, this is all for you, my friends And at the same time, when you subscribe, make sure you click on that bell icon right next to it, that you'll hear when you subscribe, because it doesn't make any sense if you subscribe without being alerted to every time we put up a new video, okay? And then if you have any questions at all, leave them down in the comments, and we'll answer them for you, so let's get started with today's project Well, you can see here, now that we've exposed the whole ceiling space up here, you can some things that are going to have to change before we can raise the ceiling up from down here, all the way up to one and a half inches away from the corner, right up there

So, see how they ran the phone lines through the hole, up there in that wall? We are going to have to, somehow, move that up higher, and then you can see, right here, that we have a register, up here on the wall, that's coming out We're probably gonna block that off, not block it completely We're gonna just make it flush with the wall and put the register on the front face, there, facing downward, towards the kitchen, here It'll still have the same effect, and you'll still have air conditioning coming in the kitchen And then we need to investigate what they did there, what's behind all of that duct tape that you see right there

That's the oven, that's the six three oven cable, coming out of there, from the fuse panel, here, see? So, it runs from there, and it runs all the way along the ceiling, and it pops in the other end, where they did the same thing, and then I also see a hole in the drywall over there that we're going to have to repair So, that was just some stupidity in construction, like we normally see Nothing new there All right, so coming back up here, to where we originally found this duct tape, here This is a lesson in how not to seal a hole in a wall, 'cause the duct tape dries and cracks, see? It just comes off, very brittle-like

So, we're gonna go ahead and figure out what these clowns did when they built the place, and we're going to go ahead and patch that up properly And then over here, where the AC vent, the register, was coming out of the wall, you can see they got a hole over here that they never plugged And it just wasn't finished right properly, up top there, either, so we're going to have to take care of all that, too, when we raise this ceiling And as I promised, it all came down in about five minutes And there it all is, on the floor

We're going to recycle all of this stuff We'll put this out on bulk trash day, for the guys that come around and get all the metal We try to throw as little into the landfill as possible, but you can see we have a little bit of prep ahead of us before we can put our studs up onto the ceiling, there, anchor in our two by fours to hold the drywall Okay, so I wanted to just take a minute, here, and show you I came up with this plan, here, this drawing, and it basically shows a bird's eye view, if you were looking down from the unit, up above, as to what is going to happen on the ceiling, here

So, if you see all of these brown things here, these represent wood pieces These are the furring strips, or the strapping, the ceiling strapping that we're going to put down, so these are two by fours that we're going to lay flat, up against the ceiling, and we're going to drill them into the concrete, and this will be the support structure to drill the concrete into Um, not the concrete This will be the support structure to drill the drywall into, here So, if you look here, like this here is a single eight by four sheet of drywall, and we just have to cut it down to seven feet, 10 inches

Same with this section, here And then the last section, here, we only need about two feet wide, by seven feet, 10 inches, right? So, what you have here is we got really lucky There's not gonna be any butt joints It's just three sheets of drywall that we need to buy, here, right? And if you look here, you'll see I have some of those straps coming down the middle, here, too One here and one here

Ideally, when the builders build a ceiling strapping for their drywall ceilings, they want to have 16 inches on center, that's ideal A lot of times, they end up with 24 inch, and that's fine, too, with two constraints Number one, we have to make sure that we put glue on every one of these straps, here, before we attach the drywall And then, when we do the drywall, we have to make sure we're using five eighths inch drywall It's a lot stiffer than the half inch

I don't recommend ever using half inch drywall on the ceiling, 'cause it bends and ripples too much And also, the five eighths inch is better fire rated for you, as well Now, fire code isn't so much of an issue for us right now, because we have a cement slab up on the ceiling, all right? But I still like to go above minimum code, whenever I can, and we're going to put fire caulking around all of these, here And since there's no butt joints, the taping will go a lot easier, here, because drywall sheets, as you know, along the long end, have a little valley cut into them, and you can just put the tape right in there, and it'll go down quicker and easier, and it muds over easier Now, here's our disk lights, here, and I'll show you those in a minute

The disk lights are what we have to use, here They actually call them Wafer lights They're LED Wafer lights, and these will fit in the one and a half inch space that's up in there, and we'll pre-wire their little cans, their tiny, little power supply cans We don't use the big cans, anymore, for recessed lighting These disks just clip into the holes that we're going to make in the drywall, here

And if you notice here, I make my spacing three feet from every wall, and this is where a lot of people drop the ball in kitchen lighting, and we just went through this at my friend's house The electrician came in and put, like, for example, this light here, like, just inches away from the front of the cabinet, and when you do that, it creates too much of a harsh shadow that goes down, onto the counter, and you'll end up with darkness underneath your counters, so the way you overcome that, is you have your lights out three feet from the wall, and that creates a nice, wide dispersion pattern of lighting, so it's very simple There's not a whole lot of rocket science to it, but so many people drop the ball on this very important point Make sure your lights are at least three feet away from the wall, not two feet away from the wall You don't want to be 12 inches away from your cabinet

You want to be 24 inches away from the front of your cabinet, here And then this wire, right here, we're going to install that today That's the big, thick power cord that goes from the fuse panel, over to where the stove is, okay? And so, you see, we have to leave cutouts, here, in our strapping, to allow us to run wires, here and there, throughout And that's pretty much all there is to it There's a couple possibilities we have for choices, here

We can do a, the old cabinet was 30 inches, so you see how it ends up here, at the 30 inch mark? And so, what we want to do is get something better than that, something taller, because look how much space would be left from here to the ceiling, right? So, most of your standard cabinets, now, you can get 30 inch, you can get 36 inches, and that would take us up to this line What I need to find out from my custom cabinet builders is do they have a 40 inch cabinet? Because, ideally, I would want to do a 40 or 42 inch cabinet The problem is, is if I want to do a 42 inch cabinet, there's not enough space up here 'Cause remember, this is what my two by fours are gonna take up, that space right up top there, and the five inch drywall is gonna go there, so I have to end my cabinets right there That would have to be my endpoint

So, if we can get a 40 inch cabinet, we're fine If not, we have to back down to 36 inch All right, so now we have to tackle the issue of this thing, here This was our air conditioning ducting that had the old register on it, which was on the ceiling With this new kitchen remodel, what we're gonna do is we're gonna cut it back here, remove the whole thing, and it'll be flush with the wall, and we'll come up with a new duct system that will allow the register to end right there on the wall

All right, so now that we've cut around the edge, I'm gonna just pull it off the wall, there And we'll have to make some adjustment cuts, here All right, so we made the cut there, now we have separation So now, that's what we're looking at, here, so we're gonna come up with a way to terminate this better with the ducting, here, and we'll get a register that will fit on here, and it'll just be a wall register (drill whirs) All right, so what you've seen us do here is we're putting pilot holes, here, on these two by fours before we mount them to the ceiling

So, these pilot holes are gonna be for all of the Tapcons, and I'll usually put one close to the end, and then you'll see, I kind of stagger them as I go down This one will be on the right side, and the next one will be down here on the left side of the stud And then we'll put the stud up against the ceiling, there Against that cement slab And we will put a concrete bit in here, and we'll just kind of tap it, and just, like, make score marks on the ceiling for where we're gonna drill, and then we'll go ahead and drill the holes for the Tapcons

Okay, and as we enter the kitchen, here, you can see our ceiling strapping, here, for the drywall ceilings is taking shape We have the perimeter up, pretty much, so you can see all we did was we took our two by four studs, and screwed them up to the ceiling, thus turning them into drywall strapping And you can see what we've done, here, is we kind of staggered the anchors, the Tapcons, so we just kind of alternate them, gives it a little bit more stability See how they go here, and up there, and then back that way? Then up to this end, and then back to that end, and that's how we do it all the way around, and we just leave room, here and there, wherever we need to get a cable across, because we're only gonna put our screws, maybe, six or eight inches apart, going around the perimeter, here So, we're going to start getting some more of these put up, now, to go across

They'll be our 24 inch, we'll have them every 24 inches And you can see, we've already got our lights, our puck lights The boxes for them are already attached to the concrete ceiling, there, and they just wire from one to the next, in a daisy chain fashion, and we'll unplug these disks once we put the drywall up, has the holes in them, and once the drywall is up and secured, we'll attach these disks right into the hole The holes will be cut out in the drywall, big enough to hold these lights, and they'll snap right in (drill whirs) Now that we have the hole drilled in the concrete, it's time to pull out the impact driver, and we're going to drive in this Tapcon, here, up into the concrete

(drill whirs) And that's how you do it, all the way down the line (AirVac sucks) All right, so you just saw, I like to vacuum out my holes after I drill them, and the reason is, is so that there's no concrete powder that's in there that could bind up, so when you try to put in your Tapcons, here, so you don't want it getting all bound up on the threads, here, and it'll keep your Tapcon from going in It'll make it hard to get it in there It's not as important on the ceiling, here There's our hole

Not as important as it is on the walls, because on the ceiling, most of it does fall out, by gravity, but it's always good to clean it out I like to be consistent All right, so this is what I call insurance Whenever I secure wood up to concrete, I always like to run a bead of PL adhesive Okay

Then I'm just gonna smooth it up in there This just kind of helps seal it to the ceiling Gives it a little bit extra oomph It's the same thing they do with the cabinets, when we secure the cabinets to the wall, see? So, it's just gonna help give you the strength of a thousand nails, and we'll do that all the way around Wherever you see those cracks are, we're gonna go ahead and try to tool some of this adhesive in there

You can do it with liquid nails, as well – [Worker] Brand new, cool – [Jeff] And here we are, the next morning We got all the framing up Getting ready to add the drywall

We'll just remove these disk lights before we put the drywall up Got the cords all secured nicely Everything's routing along the strapping, there, along the top All the cords are out of the way, so when we put the drywall up here, it'll be just nicely tucked underneath Okay, so what we're doing here, is we're applying the adhesive directly to the back of the drywall

It's a little easier than trying to apply it up top, here, to the straps, because it tends to wanna become stalactites and drip down, so it's easier for me to just put it right here onto the drywall And here, we've got the 24 inch mark measured, and we're going straight down, here And it's very simple, that's all you do, because this will be as strong as a thousand nails This will help greatly hold this drywall onto the ceiling So, here's our setup for putting the drywall up on the ceiling

We've got one T set up over here, and another one set up over here And the idea is you get the sheet balanced across and fit, the way you're gonna put it, and then you wedge it up into the corner on both sides, here, and then we have a third one that we're gonna put up in the middle, that holds the sheet as close as you can get to the drywall So, this one's already done, and we're about to do it on the second sheet Four and eight, it's this one, there (drill whirs) Okay, and before we take our Ts down, we're gonna show you how they look, how they're holding the drywall up in place, so that we were able to come in here and put our drywall screws up into the strapping

And you can see they're just wedged against the floor, there And, so now we're going to take these down They've served their purpose (drill whirs) All right, so here, we can see we've got the drywall ceiling installed, here, and you can see how narrow a space you've got, here, so there's your can for the light There's the electrical wire, coming across, leading to it

And the can is right there, and we have our circles drawn on the drywall, right there, and there's another one, gonna be right over here And so, we're just gonna drill these circles out, and reach up in there and grab the white cable and plug in our disk lights All right, so this is the hole saw that we're gonna use I like this, this one's made by Klein Tools, and what I like about it is it's adjustable, here, so I can set these widths here to whatever diameter of the hole that we're gonna drill So in this case, we're going to drill a four and a quarter inch hole, and then this is cool, too

This is like a little bowl that's attached to it, and when you drill up on the ceiling, here, it's gonna catch all the dust So, let's see how it works We're gonna start right here in the middle (drill whirs) And it looks like we got ourselves a nice, little, cleanly cut hole That only took a few seconds, and no dust

Because you can see, all the dust is captured, right here in the bowl All right, so now I'm gonna just reach up here and grab my white wire, and you can see it's just right here, and we're gonna take the disk light, here, and screw it in All right, so we're just screwing the frame in there, now And then these, here, you flip them back up, you wedge them up in the ceiling, there, and it just clicks right into place, and there you have it A beautiful, thin disk light, and remember, it was all in this little space right up in here, and that, folks, is how you put a nice, little disk light into a very narrow crawlspace, for lack of a better word